In Vietnam's capital, Hanoi, travelers can still find the old way of life. The smell of freshly baked croissants wafts out from local bakeries. Old men still don berets for their strolls along the boulevards. These days, though, motorcycles crowd out bicycles in Hanoi's streets, modern high-rises overshadow the city's faded colonial architecture and sophisticated restaurants vie for customers with old rice-or-noodle shops. The Savvy Traveler's Jeff Tyler found one eatery where the new improves upon the old, and where the food satisfies more than just the palate.