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So, How was St. Maarten?
There's an expectation to a vacation. "I'm so jealous." And why not? You spend lots of money. You use precious vacation days. You expect something.
But it promised even more to our family. My father was recreating a trip we had taken to St. Maarten 25 years ago when my sister and I were kids and Dad was recently divorced. We still spoke of it. I remember racing crabs on the beach, catching salamanders under the banana trees and having our own pool. Later, we would measure other vacations against that idyllic tropical Christmas. But this trip didn't quite go as planned.. Day One: The Dog The house looked like a perfume ad -- white stucco walls and Spanish tile floors with an inner courtyard and L-shaped pool. It stood high on a peninsula, overlooking the sea on three sides. The neighborhood, called Terre Basses had no stores, no town, just hundreds of villas, each with its own designer pool, gardener, and maid. Around the house was a high wall with a sign that said "Beware of the Dog." But there was no dog, not at our house. On that first day I decided to go for a stroll with my one-year-old daughter Eleanor.
Hephillia: She went to carry Eleanor for a walk and in walking the dogs came out from the fence and start barking after her and she gets so scared until it ends up biting her. [laughing] I was glad it was her and not the baby.
Hephillia: I didn't tell you to carry a stick I spoke to the realtor who'd rented the house and to the local police. They offered forms and sympathy, but nothing about removing the dog -- certainly not in this vacation lifetime. They both said this had never happened before, but Hephilia told a different story.
Hephillia: It bite many people and the owners haven't done anything about it. You can still see the markings where the dog's teeth went it, two round points separated by an invisible 45 degree of jaw. The doctor who patched me up made me keep the leg dry for two days - two days surrounded by ocean, next to a private pool and I couldn't even take a shower. So I eased into the rhythms of a sympathy vacation. No swimming, no walking, just visits to the local medical clinic and phone calls from family members in New York City. Though they'd barely so much as pet a dog, were now even more certain of the evils of the natural environment that lurks beyond the isle of Manhattan. But my days as the victim were ending. Day Three: The Mosquitos
Day Five: The Fever My brother-in-law Stuart awoke that morning with a fever of 104 and cramps so great he couldn't move. Dengue Fever. A mosquito borne illness known as "Backbreak Fever" Stuart spent six more days writhing in bed, sometimes delirious, his eyes so swollen he could hardly see.
Stuart: The fever...from the virus itself. Oh, and big surprise. They said he didn't get it in St. Maarten. I'll admit it. I'd been topped. On the menu of vacation-hell my dog bite became merely a canape. Stuart's week of delirium and fevers was the event that would define this family holiday for all of us. But he saw it differently.
Stuart: No, it didn't really...bonus vacation sickness" My brother-in-law's eerie and somewhat annoying stoicism about the whole thing made me wonder. Maybe the dog bite, the mosquitos and the Dengue Fever weren't just a patch of bad luck but an answer to an unspoken question. You can't recreate that over idealized childhood vacation, that Madeleine of a perfect time and perfect place. You shouldn't try. Somewhere between the complete unadulterated childhood memory and the mongrels and mosquitos we met this time, lies Saint Maarten, a small island, half French and half Dutch, the smallest landmass to be so divided. Just remember, if you go for a walk, carry a stick. Back in New York, where it's cold but familiar, I'm Wesley Weissberg for Savvy Traveler. |
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