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Bus Travel & Essence of Fall

First, Rudy's wistful comment on today's show about how Greyhound could improve its service makes me think that he should check out bus service in Mexico, where car ownership is much less prevalent than in the US and where the number of competing bus lines is staggering. For many routes, there are three classes of travel--second, first, and primera clase de lujo, luxury first class. For the latter two classes, seats are reserved, so that if you buy tickets in advance, you don't have to worry about being separated from your travel companions. A luxury first class bus, in addition to the air-conditioning and the bathroom, frequently will have a stewardess handing boarding passengers a plastic container with a pastry and a bottle of water; free sodas are sometimes also available. On one trip, my seat featured a leg rest (looking like a pint-sized ironing board that folded down from the seat in front) as well as a foot rest. The down side for me, however, are the movies--shown on video monitors placed on both sides every couple of rows and without headphones. These are usually American action films, apparently chosen because it doesn't really matter that the English subtitles are too small for all but the nearest passenger to see.

Re: the essence of fall - I have several times been traveling in Mexico or Guatemala in late October and early November, where November 1 and/or 2 are important dates in the holiday calendar--November 1, the important day in Guatemala, being All Saints' Day, and November 2, the more celebrated in Mexico, being the Day of the Dead. In either case, the holiday is a time for the whole family to go to the cemetery with flowers and perhaps a wreath, to clean around the grave, to say prayers, and to spend time thinking about the dead.

In one prosperous indigenous village in Guatemala where I found myself one year, four-piece bands were playing in front of some of the larger mausoleums...My favorite tradition is carried out at two other, poorer and smaller villages in Guatemala, where groups of young men craft circular kites, made of tissue paper on wooden frames in unbelievably elaborate designs and the largest maybe 8 feet across, which are flown above the cemetery at one village, above the soccer field in the other. Apparently there was, or still is, a belief that the kites communicate with the spirits of the dead. Here there are masses of people and ample food and drink stands to service them. It's a fabulous spectacle.

Louise

 

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